Yesterday, as an experiment, I put three sea bass in the oven (200 degrees C for 30 minutes, butter outside & in, lemon). I served them with grilled asparagus & frites - exactly right for a Tuesday evening.

Tonight, I eat the remains of the third fish - cold - with a little soy sauce. Perfect. Cold the fish acquires another dimension.

I think I paid 16 euros for the three & the woman at the counter took off the heads, fins & scales - an operation which, on its own, was fascinating.

Anyway, I reckon that's pretty good going. As Rick Stein used to say: "that's going on the brasserie menu".